Sig Sauer P229 Serial Number Date

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Sig Sauer is a company headquartered in Exeter, New Hampshire, that manufactures a line of firearms. The company makes guns for law enforcement, military and commercial users. Every Sig Sauer gun has a serial number engraved on it. With this serial number, you can call Sig Sauer customer service and request the date. Legion Model Number. Serial Number. Email Address. Retailer Name. Date of Purchase. Date Format: MM slash DD slash YYYY. First Name. Last Name. Street Address. Address Line 2 City. State. Alabama Alaska Arizona Arkansas California Colorado Connecticut Delaware District of Columbia Florida Georgia Hawaii Idaho Illinois Indiana Iowa.

Trying to get history of my P226 bought used in 2009. No rails.s/n U462xxx made in W. Germany also has Exeter NH stamped on left (port) sideBottom front of frame shows a series of marks. Beginning at the muzzzle looks like a bug next another symbol I can't determine then the letter Z and another symbol.On the right (starboard) side of the frame is the s/n followed by a Z and another symbol that looks like it contains a pair of paratrooper wings.Any help would be appreciated.Thanks  Location: Palm Springs area of California  Registered: October 05, 2011Ignored post bypostedOctober 21, 2011 07:29 PM. Originally posted by nyng1957:Hi UriahNot sure if I am doing this correctly. Here is the info I gleaned.My P226 was not on the list.

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The U462 xxx appears to be a 1993 Nitro, Proof House is ULM and another proof seems to indicate it was Proofed in Kiel (w. Germany)I hope this info is helpful.LarrySerial numbers within a particular model tend to be sequential, with the occasional anomaly.

So while your exact serial number isn't in the list just yet, it would fall in 1991 or 1992.Since you said 1993, I'm assuming the date proof on the underside of your slide is KD. Can you confirm please?Both your slide and frame should have the same Ulm Nitro proof (test firing) and the slide will have the Kiel proof as well.

Well, folks, it's been a while since I've spent time on here. Life gets in the way of fun, as we all know.There is some awesome things that come along once-in-a-while, however. Today, I put up some money on a West German P226.

The owner of the pawn shop, a very good acquaintance of mine, had it marked for $800, so $848 with Idaho sales tax. He told me, '$700 on a cash deal.' So, I'm trading my well-used and appreciated SP2022 9mm plus two spare magazines and $300 for this pistol. It is brand-new, never transferred, but looks older. It comes with FOUR, that's right, FOUR magazines!It has the pinned breech block, no rail, and the two-piece screw-on grip panels.

The paper says '1995,' but maybe you guys can give me some better info? Can you guys give me a more accurate build date? Serial number is U528XXX. What is the actual value of this pistol in today's market, and how well do you guys think I did? I'm ecstatic! I've been wanting to trade-up for months now!Regards,Rob.

Avoid the temptation to replace everything on your brand-new 1911 just to make it 'better'. Know what you're changing out and why. You may spend a lot of money fixing things that weren't broken to begin with.

Shoot at least 500 rounds through it first, then decide what you don't like and want to improve. Regarding vintage 1911s, pre-1970 pistols are highly collectible in original, unaltered condition and should NEVER be refinished or modified as it completely ruins their monetary value. I'll wait for a well-built P227. If I wanted another single-stack.45, I'd get another '11.You may be waiting a long time. I don't see Exeter/Pease ever being able to make guns as good as older Sigs.

They should have quit screwing with the design after they introduced forged slides. That was a decent design upgrade, though the folded carbon steel slides work just fine.

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The Sigarms guns are a close second to W. The guns with Exeter made slides and German parts were great too. I regret selling my Sigarms 226.357 a lot. First, the test target from the factory. Five shots at fifteen meters. Measured with a tape at.5', so I'll have to see if I can match G. Siemen on this one.Next, just a side view.

The only wear marks I could find after disassembling it were a couple on the guide rod from the spring riding it and a faint discoloration where the smilies normally form on the barrel.The third picture shoes my second round of shooting. I fired 31 rounds total yesterday, 25 on a milk jug, 6 at re-filled pop cans.

The can on the left was shot four times with FMJs, and the one on the right was shot with a Cor-Bon 125 gr. +P JHP @1250 FPS. The difference in damage was dramatic, to say the least.This pistol is everything I was looking for. I immediately fell in love with the Sigs when I first handled one, and now I have a classic P22X of my own. The double-action trigger on this pistol has no stack and feels awesome.

Once you get to the 10-lb peak pressure, it's like it pulls itself to the break. It has a few rough spots that will hopefully smooth out over time. It's not annoying enough that I'll have to work on it myself, as it does feel better than many double action revolvers as-is. The single action trigger could use a little smoothing in the first stage when it's engaging the firing pin safety, but the break is very clean. There is no creep, but the letoff has just a hair too much sear.

This is compared to a target-grade glass-rod 1911, so that's just fine with me at the 80% mark!I have larger paws, so I won't be looking for the short reach trigger. I may find new grip panels in the future, but those are spendy and these fit and feel well enough. A short reset trigger would be nice, but it will be a while before they're in stock on MidwayUSA. The sights are regulated how I like them on a 9mm, with a #8 rear and #6 front. I like to see my target impact point over my sights. POA/POI is preferred, with this one shooting with a 6-o'clock hold at 12-15 meters. I may go for night sights in the future, but these ball-and-dummy contrast sights work fine with a flashlight putting the front post in plain view.