Wii Mini SoftmodYesterday, on September 28th, 2019; fullmetal5 the first exploit for the Wii Mini. That means, you can now use Homebrew on the Wii Mini as well. Step 1: LinuxBecause the exploit needs to talk directly to your bluetooth module without any layer inbetween, it sadly only works on Linux. If you are already using linux, skip this first step.If not, you need to download Ubuntu:Then you can choose between either booting Ubuntu in a virtual machine, or using a live USB or live DVD. In both cases your Windows installation is not going to be changed, you are just temporarily booting into a Linux environment. A live DVD or USB is preferred over a virtual machine, as there is a better compatibility.To create a virtual machine, you need to download and install Virtualbox:After you've installed and started it, you can click the 'New' button to create a new VM.

Portable Wii Created by Modder. The creator of the Wii-in-an-Altoids-can has impressed yet again, as Shank Mods has just finished a three-year project of creating a portable Wii/GameCube console. Last year, Nintendo announced the Wii Mini, a slimmed-down, simplified version of the aging Wii console. The Wii Mini was released in Canada in December 2012, followed by the U.K. In March of this.

Then just follow the wizard. On the first page, enter a name, select the type 'Linux' and the version 'Ubuntu (64 bit)'. On the next page, you can leave the RAM at the default setting. If you have lots of RAM you could also increase it, then Ubuntu will run faster (not more than 50% of your RAM). On the third page ('drive) choose the option 'No hard drive' - Linux boots directly from the ISO.

Ignore the warning message by clicking 'Continue'. Choose the new VM from the list on the left, click 'Modify', go to 'Storage' and choose the empty entry. Then click the DVD icon on the right side and select the Ubuntu ISO you just downloaded. The empty entry should then display the ISO file name.

Click 'OK' and boot the machine by clicking 'Start'. Go to the menu 'Devices' - 'USB' and choose your Bluetooth dongle in the list to connect it to the virtual machine. If it isn't shown in that list, it may not be compatible with the VM and you need to try one of the other methods. Download the and connect a USB drive with at least 4 GB.

CAUTION: All data on that USB drive will be deleted!. Start the program, select the Ubuntu ISO under 'Image File', select your USB drive under 'Device', then click 'Write'. After the write process is done, you need to boot your computer from the USB drive. The exact process is different for each computer, usually you see a message at boot time like 'Press F12 for boot order' which brings you to a menu that allows you to boot from the USB drive.Take any disc burning program (like Imgburn) and write the ISO onto a blank DVD. Make sure you burn the image itself and not just write the image as a file onto the disc. Then restart the computer from the disc.The exact process is different for each computer, usually you see a message at boot time like 'Press F12 for boot order' which brings you to a menu that allows you to boot from the disc drive.Now your computer or virtual machine should boot into the Ubuntu system.

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When the system is ready and asks if you want to try or install Ubuntu, click on 'Try Ubuntu'. Step 2: Preparing the exploitYou now have prepared and started a Linux system (or you jumped to this step because you already have Linux). Now we need to install a few libraries.

On a virtual machine you should automatically have an internet connection, on a computer with a LAN connnection it should work automatically as well. If you normally use WiFi, you need to click the icon in the top right corner and connect your computer to the WiFi again.Also, you should now turn on your Wii Mini, connect a wii remote, and connect a USB drive with a boot.elf file in its root (ideally, the ).Make sure your console is as close to the bluetooth adapter as possible (. Step 3: The exploitBy typing the following command into the Terminal you start the exploit:For a PAL Wii Mini: sudo./bluebomb-x86./stage0/MINISMPAL.bin stage1.binFor an USA Wii Mini: sudo./bluebomb-x86./stage0/MINISMNTSC.bin stage1.binIf you are running this on a Raspberry Pi or a similar ARM-based device, use bluebomb-arm instead of bluebomb-x86.The Terminal should now print 'Waiting to accept'. The computer is now waiting for a connection from your Wii Mini.If that command prints some kind of syntax error when using this command and you tried both the x86 and the arm version, follow the following commands and try again. If the step above worked and you see the 'waiting to accept' text, this is not necessary.Additional steps in case of syntax errorgit clone bluebombmakecp bluebomb.cd.now try the command above this info box again. Make sure that exactly one wiimote (without Motion Plus) is connected to the Wii Mini. Remove the batteries from that wiimote.

Press the SYNC button on the Wii Mini a bunch of times. It may take quite a few button presses to work, depending on the distance between Wii Mini and computer, and the quality of your bluetooth connection. Just spam the SYNC button for a while until the Terminal displays 'Got connection handle'.The Wii Mini should now boot the Hackmii installer after a few seconds. Once you are in the Hackmii installer, put the batteries back into the Wiimote and install the Homebrew Channel. Step 4: cIOS (experimental)I modded the d2x cIOS to work on the Wii Mini, that means, you can use USB-Loaders.

The cIOS hasn't been tested a lot, but because it is not interfering with the system and is just installed into a cIOS slot, the chance that this breaks something is pretty small.Download the for the WiiU (yes the Wii Mini requires the WiiU version) and extract it onto the USB drive. Then delete the folder 'v10' and the file 'ciosmaps.xml' from the folder so that only 'boot.dol', 'icon.png' and 'meta.xml' are in there.Then go to and download the most recent version (currently: d2xl-v1-beta2.7z) of my modified d2x(l) cIOS and extract it into the d2x-cios-installer folder (in the apps folder) on the USB drive:Plug the USB drive into the Wii Mini and start the d2x cIOS installer.

Press any key to skip the intro screen.At the menu point 'Select cIOS', choose 'd2xl-v1-beta2'. For 'Select cIOS base' select '57' and for 'Select cIOS slot' select '249'. Under 'NOTES' there will be a section 'Offline installation'. Take a note of the exact version number (5 digits directly before the '.wad' extension).Then press A to start the installation. If it fails with a weird 'tmd version mismatch' error, that isn't a problem.

Just try again, but this time, while selecting the cIOS base, press left/right on the wiimote until the 5-digit number from earlier is different than when you tried before. This time, it should work - one of the two version numbers should definitely work.After successfully installing the cIOS press B to exit. Now you've successfully installed the cIOS 'd2xl-v1-beta2' into the cIOS slot 249 and can use any USB-Loader on the Wii Mini. What next?If you are reading this step that means you successfully installed homebrew on your Wii Mini.What does work?. Normal Wii homebrew.

The Wiimmfi patcher (LAN only, see next step). USB Loader (only if you installed the cIOS in step 4)What doesn't work (yet)?. Bootmii. Not compatible, and even if you could install it, you wouldn't be able to control it. Priiloader.

You could install it, but you can't really boot it without RESET button. CTGP (because it requires an SD card and doesn't support USB drives). Wiimmfi / internet connectionThe Wii Mini has no Wifi module, that means a wireless connection is not possible. Support for the LAN adapter is present though, you just cant configure it using the Wii menu.Download (made by fullmetal5), put it onto the USB drive ( /apps/template/boot.dol) and start it.After that, the internet connection should be set up for a standard LAN connection with DHCP and automatic DNS.You can now start the Wiimmfi patcher and play online.

When you are in the wiimmfi-patched game, you can unplug the USB drive and plug in the LAN adapter; or you can use an USB hub to connect both at the same time.

Skill Level:Beginnerby December 19, 2006 I promise. No more 'Wii' jokes. My brother sent me the link to featuring all the damage caused by thrown remotes, which sparked my interest in how the Wii remote worked.

I had to tear one open! This new gaming system from Nintendo is the first maker to really flood the market with a triple-axis accelerometer with Bluetooth?

Simple right? We've had this for a couple years now. Checkout the our product. It featured the MMA7260Q, the first commercially available tri-ax chip from Freescale connected with a Bluetooth? Module for wireless accelerometer sensing. Nintendo made it so much more fun.My apologies for the large pictures causing the page layout to crunch. It's more important to be able to read the IC markings!Good bye friend.Care of Ebay.

I think we paid $55. Not bad for the Christmas crazy time of year. This unit had a Target sticker on the back of the packaging.This is the piece of string that started all the craze. My unit is the original, thin line, not safe for humans, version. If you don't already know, Nintendo has had problems with players using the Wii far more energetically than expected. The players are 'bowling' or boxing or swinging the Wii remote so hard during a game, that the remote is coming out of their hands.

Well, that's what the strap was made for! Unfortunately the itty bitty piece of string connecting the wrist strap to the remote snaps and the Wii remote goes rocketing across the room killing TVs, breaking glasses, light fixtures, and in some cases causing mild black eyes.

I must play these games!Japanese engineering at its best. Poo.Hurdle number 1 was getting the plastic retail packaging open without loosing a finger. Hurdle numero dos is getting these fun 'y' shaped screws out. Luckily, while these screws are not standard, they are not exotic either.

Any security bit set should have this type of bit. I also liked the FCC ID: POO-WC45.Slight modificationI had the bit, but the lower two holes where too small. So a little drilling and I was able to remove the four screws.

There were two plastic latches at the top of the remote as well. Nothing a flat head screw driver couldn't take care of.Finally inside, we start to see some of the features Nintendo is purporting. The speaker is the black disc with two tabs. The accelerometer (ok, I'll spoil it) from analog devices is picture at the head of the screw driver.On the flip side we see the various other components. Further down we have the small vibrator motor for that 'rumble' feeling. And finally the IR sensor at the end of the board.I couldn't identify the Nintendo connector off the bat.

The main difference from other shows of this kind is that the story for the most part doesn't emerge from characters' actions & choices - rather, the characters are put into an already crafted plot full of twists & symbols mirroring their inner conflicts, and they receive development while going through this labyrinthine plot & unraveling its mystery step by step. All the tracks are nicely composed to create the engrossing and mysterious atmosphere of the series, and even those who dislike the show agree that the soundtrack is simply amazing.The voice-acting is also very well-done as the voices perfectly fit the characters, and the seiyus did a very good job at conveying emotions.To sum up, the production values are impressive indeed, and the style is memorable & totally appropriate for the show.CHARACTERSWell, Ergo Proxy is an anime about self-discovery, hence its primary focus lies on the characters and their development.

I hate proprietary connectors. When will they learn to follow the way? Next we have a 4V 3300uF cap. What would this big cap be used for? Must be for cleaning up a DC to DC switcher circuit. But with two AAs, you get 3V.

One should be able to run the Bluetooth? IC and ADXL330 off of 2.8 or even 1.8V. Normally, engs de-rate capacitors by 50%.

So if the circuit runs at 5V, you need at least a 10V cap. Following that logic, this cap must sit on a 1.8V bus, but 3300uF? That's a lot of smoothing.12-20-06: One reviewer suggested the cap acted as a small power supply when the play action got heated. If a user is playing actively enough, the AA batteries may compress the springs enough to temporarily disconnect the batteries from the system - at least for a split second. The large cap supplies the power for the system momentarily - a mini UPS if you will. Interesting theory. In reality, I'm not sure if the batteries ever compress the springs entirely (causing disconnect) but the movement may be enough to increase the point resistance where the batts touch the power connectors - decreasing the battery voltage momentarily.

Your guess is as good as mine.Next we have the scan push button and fancy AA battery clips (very nicely designed).Broadcom Bluetooth?U7849 6Q63 could be anything. All those flat round things (330, 100, 4R7) are inductors 33uH, 10uH, and 4.7uH. These are predominantly used for DC to DC step-up or step-down (also called boost and buck respectively). They can also be used for filtering - probably both on this board.

Filtering is crucial for a clean RF signal out of the Broadcom Bluetooth? IC (center).is a low-cost Bluetooth? Wireless keyboard/mouse IC. It features an 8051 core and RAM/ROM memory featuring the HID Bluetooth? Profile and stack. Any chance they used a flash part that we can hack instead of the masked ROM (un-changeable) version? Highly unlikely.

But lemme know if someone figures out how to get into the core. The small crystal is 24MHz. They make it look so easy don't they?IR sensor, vibe motor, and lots of Test Points.Top side - connector end.Here you get a feel for the pinout of the connector.

The small LEDs are shown. I can't identify M 626 3322 IC but it has the Mitsumi logo - seems to be connected to something on the power system.Hitting, the H7824HE comes up as an MSOP-8pin Mobile Phone Audio device from Rohm - that seems very plausible as it is located near the speaker connection.Accelerometer and EEPROMFinally, the with date code 0614 (my chip was manufactured the 1st week of April of 2006!) with the 'to be expected' three axis filtering caps and power decoupling cap. The ST 4128 BWP part seems to be a 128kbit I2C serial EEPROM - datasheet is. This agrees with the pinout of the ST datasheet.

Pins 1 through 4 are grounded (address lines E0,1,2 are 0), VCC is pin 8. Pin 7 is WC (write control) and is tied to resistor R38. Pins 6/5 are the Serial Data (SDA) and Serial Clock (SCL) lines. Anyone feel like clocking out the internals of the I2C EEPROM? My guess is that it contains mundane info like a Bluetooth? Identifier, perhaps a serial number, and some trimming values for the accelerometer and IR sensor.

A task for another tutorial some day.Okay so we couldn't wait that long.The M24128 128kbit EEPROM from the Wii RemoteWe hot-aired off the EEPROM and soldered it down to our. We then hooked up the unit to an AVR micro that could handle the I2C communication and clocked out all the I2C data from the M24128 into the AVR and down the serial pipe to the computer and captured it. You will find the binary file. My bet was that the EEPROM contained all constants like Bluetooth? ID, firmware revision, etc. And that all the fun Wii Remote functionality was burned into the Broadcom part.

David's bet was that the Broadcom part was just the Bluetooth? HID stack and protocol and that it pinged the EEPROM during boot up for actual Wii Controller firmware.

We were both right!Looking at the binary file, the fun thing to note is the word 'Nintendo' a couple thousand bytes into the file. Boy would that be fun to alter. The real kicker was that we found unencrypted 8051 code in the file. We don't know if it is checksumed or anything, but you should be able to hack away.

This seems to indicate that the entire Wii Remote functionality is contained on this M24128 EEPROM. Nifty.12-20-06: Savvy Nintendo reviewers claim the EEPROM also probably contains 'Miis' - I've never played Wii before so I had to ask about this 'Mii'. To my understanding, it's a type of Avatar or user settings that are stored on the Wii Remote iteself. Perhaps we could use this Mii storage to get the Wii to change the EEPROM contents, thus giving us two binary files to compare and to backout checksum info.And just so you know, there are two test points on the board that allow access to SDA and SCL. We didn't reprogram the EEPROM in circuit, but one could do so relatively easily. We haven't located the WC test point. We're pretty sure the resistor near the EEPROM is pulling WC high to write protect it.

Hot-airing off this resistor and tying that pin to ground would permanently put the EEPROM in writeable mode - or you could find the WP pin test point and control it off board.While the firmware seems to be pulled open, we haven't found the checksum. We would need to crack open another Wii with a different firmware version - compare the two, and back-out the checksum. Once this is done, it's happy coding time. We don't have plans for doing this, but then again, if someone else pulls their firmware off, please let us know what you find!So there are the internals of the infamous Wii Remote. Happy holidays and watch out for wii-motes flying at your head! -NESDecember 19th 2006.

This is a very old post but i still hoping to get answer(s)i want to use multiple wiimotes at the same time but i have a big problem with their 'Nintendo 'RVL-CNT-01' names that computer can detect only one of them and i don't know how to rename themi found out that EEPROM contains the name from your binary file and now i want to rename it with changing EEPROM content but I'm not much familiar with programming stuffi should read EEPROM to bin and then open it with notepad and change the name (RVL-CNT-01) and save it and then write it back to EEPROM? Or i should edit it's hex format?should i choose the same length as 'RVL-CNT-01' has? Hex length or decimal type?sorry if it is so noob question and thank you in advance.